After reading about the Denver & Rio Grande abandonment over Tennessee Pass in Trains Magazine, Ken Wright and I chose Colorado for our 2003 Railcycle destination. As always we rode on various railroads along the way.
Our first stop was Carbonton, a siding on the Idaho Northern & Pacific near Cascade, Idaho. After talking to some cowboys who were herding their cattle along the railroad right of way, we headed south down the Payette River to Smiths Ferry for a late dinner and some local flavor. I might note that we checked the tourist train schedule first to make sure the tracks were clear. This canyon is beautiful and most of it is without road access. We rode over a steel bridge at a fork in the river and passed through a tunnel near Smiths Ferry that is advertised as the shortest railroad tunnel in America. Besides seeing a large bobcat hit by a car earlier in the day, we spooked a couple of elk and saw a few deer before arriving back at the truck in the moonlight.
Ken crossing the Payette River on the Idaho Northern & Pacific
Our next stop was the Nevada Northern Railroad in northeastern Nevada. We pedaled southward from the N.N./Western Pacific junction at Shafter to the site of an old water tower at Decoy. We set up our base camp on the hot and treeless desert floor but with the luxury of concrete tables and chairs (water tower foundation). We got up early the next morning and rode the railcycle on a dusty little road west across the desert to the Pequop Mountains. We wanted to see the Western Pacific's Pequop tunnel and explore the trail used by the Donner party 150 years ago. On the way we sought shelter from the blazing Nevada sun in one of the out-buildings of a deserted ranch that had
On the Nevada Northern at Decoy
been constructed primarily from railroad ties. We later discovered an old railroad bed with switchbacks that led to a pass above the tunnel. Railroad companies would often build these temporary passage ways over mountain ranges to complete the continuity of their mainline while waiting for a major tunnel to be completed. This gentle grade allowed us to ride the railcycles over the Pequops to check out both the east and west portals and to get a look at the snow capped Ruby Mountains further west. We surely appreciated the cool breeze blowing out the east portal! Wildlife encountered - - coyote, jack rabbits, lizards and birds.
In Moab, Utah we had a great opportunity to ride a Denver & Rio Grande branch line through a mile and a half long tunnel near the Colorado River. It was spooky and very dark. We saw several natural red rock arches along the right of way before entering this long black hole. There is one train a week on this seldom used branch line.
On the Moab branch of the Denver & Rio Grande
We moved on to Cortez and Durango stopping at historical and railroad sites along the way. Riding the Durango and Silverton narrow gauge was a special treat. As a tourist ride it compares favorably with the White Pass & Yukon .They both have spectacular scenery and rich histories. In the evening after the last tourist train rolled in, we took a short Railcycle trip on the line.
I celebrated my birthday at Foster's Hotel and Bar in Chama, New Mexico. The next morning we rode the railcycles up the west side of Cumbres Pass two hours ahead of the first tourist train of the season. I was impressed with the shear expanse of this land and how this tiny railroad was majestically woven through the snow capped mountains.
We were on schedule to meet Peter and Sandy Hoffman in Leadville for dinner on the 14th. After all, the reason for taking this trip was to ride the Denver & Rio Grande. Peter had checked out the route and had chosen the stretch of track along the Eagle River between the summit tunnel and Minturn as the most promising. We found the Eagle River Canyon to be what railbikers dream about.
Cumbres Pass, elevation 10,015 feet
To see the rugged beauty of the canyon while gliding along effortlessly on 135 lb. rusty welded rail was quite a treat. Wow! What could be better! A few demolished autos lay along the track telling us that there was a road somewhere high above the surrounding cliffs. The canyon is so narrow that a railroad siding we passed had to be built on the opposite side of the river from the main line. We rode through tunnels and right next to an abandoned mine that was perched precariously on the side of a cliff. It was fun to hook up with another railbiker to share this memorable part of our journey.
Sandy and Peter at the summit of Tennessee Pass
Peter and Ken head for a tunnel on the main line while Dick rides down the opposite side of the river on the siding.
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